Words: Ioana Negoescu
Photos: Rareș Beșliu
November 2024
“Even at the North Pole, I haven’t felt as alive as I do in the mornings in Romania’s forest or on a boat in the Danube Delta,” says Rareș Beșliu, a nature photographer who has captured images in over 10 countries, many of them in the Arctic region. Though they seem worlds apart, Romania and the Arctic have more in common than you’d imagine – but we’ll come back to that later.
It’s easy to become so accustomed to what we have that we no longer see the beauty in our own country. We forget to appreciate our nature and landscapes, missing the chance to marvel at them with the awe of a child. When we travel, everything fascinates us, but at home, we often overlook the magic right before us. Rareș truly discovered Romania’s magic during the pandemic when travel restrictions prevented him from going abroad. Until then, he was an entrepreneur, and photography was just a vacation hobby. But within a few months of exploring the country with a camera around his neck, his passion turned into a full-time job that now consumes all his time and dedication. During this period, he created two photo albums: Dor de Viscri (Longing for Viscri), capturing the simple life of Romanian villages and the place where he wished he had grown up, and Emoții (Emotions), a collection of his best wildlife photographs. These images reflect his deep connection with nature, showing not just animal behaviors but also the emotions he feels while observing them, imagining their own experiences and feelings.
His profound love and understanding of nature led him to create La NORD de cuvinte (NORTH of words), an educational project highlighting the effects of climate change by drawing parallels between the Arctic region and Romania. Although we don’t have melting glaciers, our winters have become noticeably shorter and milder, with snowfall becoming rare even in regions that traditionally had thick snow cover. Summers, on the other hand, are increasingly marked by extreme heat, with Romania experiencing more frequent heatwaves, prolonged droughts, and scorching temperatures that severely impact agriculture. Additionally, the frequency of extreme weather events has risen significantly. Like the Arctic, we are witnessing changes that challenge our ecosystems and the way we live. These regional impacts are part of a broader trend, with Europe warming at twice the global average rate.
These were things Rareș overlooked until he immersed himself in nature. As Sir David Attenborough said: “If children do not spend time in nature, they will not understand it, and if they do not understand it, they will not protect it.” Rareș (now 45) realized this at 40 and hopes that by setting an example, he can mobilize others who are indifferent to what is happening to the Planet – especially younger generations – to understand there is no more time to waste.
My conversation with Rareș took place at a quiet and cozy restaurant in Bucharest. He arrived with his signature bottle of tap water, a nod to his environmental advocacy. As we talked, his eyes gleamed with a quiet intensity whenever the subject shifted to nature or wildlife photography. It wasn’t just the Arctic or the Danube Delta he spoke of; it was his connection to every landscape, every creature. His voice softened and quickened in equal measure, brimming with passion and a sense of urgency. You could feel that every frame he captures carries a message, a story he’s eager to share with the world.
What follows is a conversation about his life, his work, and his mission to inspire change.
How did your passion for wildlife photography come about?
With a naturally restless spirit, I couldn’t stay put during the pandemic. I got up from the couch, grabbed a camera, and decided to explore Romania. I just couldn’t stay indoors, so I set off across the country. My first photographic stop was the village of Viscri, which inspired me to publish a book. From there, I ventured into landscape photography, climbing a mountain for the first time in my life — Ciucaș, to be exact (a spectacular mountain with a peak that’s relatively easy to conquer, making it a rewarding climb for beginners like me). My journey eventually brought me to the Danube Delta, where I discovered the true essence of wildlife and fell irreversibly in love with it. Since then, I’ve been dedicated to wildlife photography, occasionally pausing for some breathtaking landscapes.
After dedicating more than four years to wildlife photography, can you tell us what this passion offers you and how your life would look without it?
With each passing year, nature and photography continue to give me more. In return, I’ve come to understand them more deeply. I develop projects around this passion, bringing meaning to my life. When I’m not out photographing, I’m editing images, writing stories, organizing exhibitions, and talking to people about the beauty of nature. My entire life revolves around this passion, and I can’t imagine living any other way — I’d probably wilt without its light.
You have photographed in over 10 countries around the world. How do you now view nature in Romania compared to the other countries you’ve photographed? What makes it unique?
Even at the North Pole, I haven’t felt as alive as I do in the mornings in the forest or on a boat in the Danube Delta. Although I learned from a young age that Romania has one of the richest biodiversities in the world, I didn’t fully grasp what that truly meant until I experienced other countries. For me, the North Pole means polar bears, arctic foxes, seagulls, and a few other arctic animals. Iceland and the Faroe Islands are about puffins. Scotland is the land of otters and white-tailed eagles. Cyprus is famous for flamingos. But when I talk about Romania, I can’t limit myself to just a few creatures – and I don’t even know where to begin. That’s the unique beauty of Romania, and I hope our grandchildren will be able to say the same.
When discussing Romania with foreigners, what highlights do you share? What do you tell foreigners about our country?
Inevitably, the conversation shifts to our bears, especially since I spent the last year up north, making it easy to segue from polar bears to brown bears. From there, I don’t need to say much — I simply pull out my phone and show them photos of Romania. Every time, without fail, they say they absolutely must come and see it for themselves.
About a year ago (in December 2023), you released the photo album Emoții (Emotions). From your observations during the time spent with animals, what emotions do they experience, and what states have they conveyed to you over time?
I admired them so deeply that I grew to respect them immensely, appreciating every movement they make. It’s a feeling I’ve rarely experienced with people. The animal world is simple, sincere, and authentic — qualities I value in those around me. Perhaps that’s why I’ve become so attached to wildlife.
Nature beautifully showcases love in all its forms, from courtship rituals — each more ingenious and spectacular than the last, whether it’s exchanging gifts, dancing, or building elaborate nests to impress a mate — to the unwavering care mothers show their young, often to the point of sacrifice. I think of Grebe parents carrying their chicks delicately in their beaks, territorial terns fiercely defending their nests by attacking intruders, or the mother bears in Churchill, Canada, who can go up to eight months without food while pregnant and nursing their cubs. Beyond love, animals also experience fear, sorrow when losing a family member, curiosity when something catches their interest, and joy, which some express by wagging their tails. The only thing they can’t do is talk to us. As I mentioned on the album cover, believing animals don’t have emotions is like believing we are alone in the world.
What was the most powerful emotion you felt after the album launch?
It happened at the launch event when my daughter hugged me, tears in her eyes, and told me she was proud of me.
Sometimes, you wait for hours, even days, just to capture a single photograph. What have you learned from the animals during these moments?
That they live in a fragile home — one that, once destroyed, cannot be rebuilt. And we are the bulldozers, holding the remote control with the “start” and “stop” buttons in our hands.
There is talk about the 5 P’s in nature photography — purpose, patience, practice, preparation, passion – how true do you find this?
I admit I didn’t know this, but all the “P’s” are spot on. For me, practice was the most crucial, even before photography became my greatest passion. It only took a few days of picking up the camera, putting the lens to my eye, and taking random shots before I was hooked. The more I practiced, the more I uncovered its secrets, and my love for it grew even stronger. Once photography became a passion, patience and preparation naturally followed — without them, I couldn’t achieve my goals. Interestingly, I never set my goals at the start; I discover and adjust them along the way. One day, I might aim to photograph a polar bear, and the next, I’m building an entire project around it.
Which photograph taken in Romania do you value highly, despite it being less understood/ appreciated by your audience?
There are many, unfortunately, and social media has played a big role in changing how we view photography. We scroll through dozens, even hundreds of images per minute, drawn only to the sensational and vividly colorful shots — often overly saturated — and those that fill the screen. Horizontal landscape photography has been largely pushed aside in favor of vertical images that better fit our screens. This is one of the main reasons I published photo albums: to bring us back to printed photography, allowing us to take our time with each image, linger on the ones we love, understand their stories, and return to them whenever we wish.
As for your question, if I had to pick a favorite photograph, I’d choose the one of the night heron hidden among the trees. It didn’t receive many “wow” reactions, but to me, it’s a masterpiece — an image that speaks a thousand words.
How did you become an advocate for nature, and what does that role mean to you?
Photography taught me about ecology and environmental protection. Before that, I had only basic knowledge, even in my forties. Through photography, I connected more deeply with nature and felt a growing desire to protect it. My real awareness of climate change began last year while researching polar bears I wanted to photograph. I realized I couldn’t fully grasp the Arctic without understanding the environmental changes happening there. What started as a single trip to Svalbard turned into three expeditions to the Arctic, including Greenland and Churchill, Canada, inspiring me to create the La NORD de cuvinte (NORTH of words) project and the association I founded with the same name. Through these initiatives, like #delaRObinet (from tap to table), I aim to help people see how they can contribute to protecting our planet.
Being an ‘advocate for nature’ is not just about me — it’s about inspiring as many voices as possible to join in protecting the environment. While my voice alone may seem small compared to 8 billion people, I believe that through our projects, we can create echoes that matter. Michael Jackson, with his captivating music and simple but powerful messages, touched the hearts of millions. Today, we need to do the same, using any means we can, before it’s too late.
What were the things that marked you the most during your Arctic expeditions?
Let me start with the beautiful moments — the profound silence when we reached 81.5 degrees north latitude aboard the icebreaker, surrounded by endless ice with no sign of life, not even the ever-present seagulls. Then there was the breathtaking majesty of Greenland’s icebergs and the most stunning sunset I’ve ever witnessed, as if painted by God with the finest watercolors. My fascination with polar bears quickly grew into an obsession, and in Churchill, I had the incredible chance to observe them from just a few meters away, even witnessing an arrest and a daring escape from the world’s only polar bear jail. It was surreal!
But there’s also a darker side to these experiences — seeing firsthand the human impact on nature, even in these remote northern regions that are visibly melting before our eyes. In January, Norway voted to exploit minerals from the Arctic Ocean floor, despite having no studies to support the safety of such actions, opposition from activists, and the evident harm to wildlife. Ironically, this is the same country that proudly claims to be the most sustainable, where Oslo’s streets are filled with Teslas and people dine by candlelight. Yet, in Svalbard, Norway’s northernmost settlement and the gateway to the North Pole, the coal mine continues to operate. Meanwhile, in Greenland, three new airports were under construction last year to increase tourism by allowing direct flights from the United States.
Sadly, the list of environmental contradictions is long, which is why we must be informed and educated. If more people truly understood the severity of the situation, they would take action and stand against this destruction.
What did you know about polar bears before starting the project, and what can you tell us about them now, after learning their stories both at the North Pole and in Churchill, Canada?
I admit I didn’t know much before, but now I’ve gathered a bag full of stories. For instance, did you know that most polar bears live in Canada, not the North Pole? And that Churchill, Canada, is home to the world’s only polar bear jail, where troublesome bears are held for a month or two before being released, hopefully having learned their lesson? Or remember that viral drone footage of a polar bear sleeping among purple flowers? Many assumed it was a sign of global warming — an example of how misinformation spreads like wildfire, eroding our credibility. In reality, that scene is quite normal. After the sea ice melts, bears return to Churchill and spend their summers there until winter begins. The real issue isn’t bears lounging among flowers but the fact that Hudson Bay now freezes later and melts earlier, reducing the time they have to hunt seals.
Did the foreigners you interacted with help you understand nature here in Romania better? If so, how?
They helped me see that Romania truly is a country where we have it all — rich nature and incredible biodiversity, just as I mentioned. But it’s easy to forget what’s ours and take it for granted when we grow accustomed to it. Then, a foreigner comes along and says they’ve visited Romania and fallen in love with it, or they’ve heard so many stories and can’t wait to experience it themselves. That’s when you’re reminded of how special this place is. Especially from a photographer’s perspective, you realize you don’t need to travel to far-off, exotic places to capture powerful emotions — everything you need is right here.
What do you recommend to a photographer starting out? How important is equipment versus practice?
I can’t stress enough the importance of practice; equipment hardly matters at first. The key is to discover yourself, explore different types of photography, and see what style truly resonates with you. Allow time to figure out whether you stick with it or shift to something else, and determine your objective, your goal. Only then should you start thinking about the right equipment. Until that point, almost any gear will do.
I’m not the best example in this regard, as I’ve always been drawn to the latest technology, often buying the newest models even when I didn’t need them. When I first started wildlife photography, I was using a crop sensor camera with small lenses, but I quickly realized that moments in nature are fleeting and don’t repeat themselves. That’s when I made the switch to Canon, investing in gear that wouldn’t let me down. Now, I invest heavily in equipment because I can’t afford to travel to once-in-a-lifetime locations and return with poor shots due to inadequate technology. In extreme temperatures, batteries drain fast, and cameras can easily deteriorate. That’s why it’s crucial to know your purpose before deciding what to buy.
What is your favorite place in Romania for wildlife photography and why?
The Danube Delta was my first real encounter with wildlife photography, and it will always hold a special place in my heart. In just one year, I was completely captivated by its beauty. I’ve visited it seven times. During one of those visits, I captured my first truly emotional photograph, a defining moment for me. It was an image that felt as if it were calling out, urging me to keep seeking moments like this, where an entire scenario and story unfold in my mind. I saw the bird galloping like a wild west horse. I called it “The Cowboy with Long Legs.” In reality, it was just a simple stilt photographed in the sunset light, but the atmosphere, the symmetry of the reeds, and the bird’s attitude made me realize what I was truly searching for in a photograph.
The Delta is home to an incredible diversity of wildlife — over 300 species of birds and more than 40 mammals. Among those that have captured my attention are: the stilt, for the significance of that first photograph; the little egret, the Delta’s most elegant bird; the kingfisher, for its brilliant colors and the whistle I miss every spring; the European ground squirrel, whose presence is pure therapy; the white-tailed eagle, which inspired me to travel to Scotland to photograph it better; the great crested grebes, for the way they carry their chicks on their backs; and the glossy ibis, which became the cover of my album Emoții (Emotions).
Our mountains and forests are no less remarkable than the Delta. In fact, they are even more accessible — both in distance and cost — and I can explore them year-round, in any season.
What does the wildlife photography industry in Romania look like and how does it compare to the international scene?
We are progressing. I see more and more passionate wildlife photographers in Romania building impressive portfolios. Unfortunately, many don’t even identify as photographers because their main job lies elsewhere; and it is incredibly difficult to make a living from it. International photographers often collaborate with publications like National Geographic, which no longer has a presence here, and many earn income by selling prints and photo albums — something that feels almost utopian in Romania. We still have much to learn about appreciating art and recognizing its value to the point where we are willing to pay for it, which also extends to companies. Despite having the means, many prefer to invest their funds elsewhere rather than support nature photography projects.
Because it’s so challenging to stand out and succeed in this field, and since we often see each other as competitors, I’ve taken the first step towards bringing Romanian photographers together. I regularly post interviews with photographers I admire and whose work inspires me on my blog. We must support one another and collaborate to showcase Romania in the most beautiful and unique way possible to the world — a goal I feel hasn’t been fully realized yet.
Through the La NORD de cuvinte (NORTH of words) project, you give a voice to animals through the sustainability messages they offer to people. If animals could speak in a way we understand, what would they say to us?
“Learn to take care of yourselves, so you will protect us too!”