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Crișana: In Search of “The Lost World”

This region offers less touristy but still captivating areas. In the northwestern part of Romania, Crișana stands out with its impressive natural caves, delicious red wines, charming Art Nouveau architecture, and acclaimed anti-aging spa centers.

Crișana’s cultural heritage is vastly influenced by Hungary’s historical control of the territory and political alliances, which have shaped the traditions and architecture. During the Middle Ages, Crișana was part of the Kingdom of Hungary and later the Principality of Transylvania. It played a vital role in the region’s historical and political developments. During the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1867-1918), Crișana became part of the administrative unit of Bihor County, which saw significant economic and cultural development.

Its landscapes are a mixture of hills, dense forests, crystalline rivers, and small lakes – allowing nature to show off its wonders. The Carpathian Mountains embrace Crișana, with the highest summit, Cucurbăta Mare, rising to 1,849 meters. The mountains are crisscrossed by several rivers, including the Crișul Repede (The Fast Criș), Crișul Alb (The White Criș), and Crișul Negru (The Black Criș). These rivers often create beautiful landscapes and are great for water-based activities. 

The region is also rich in caves and gorges. Notable examples include the Bihor Cave (Peștera Bihor), one of Romania’s largest and most spectacular caves, and the Scărișoara Glacier Cave, which houses one of the largest underground glaciers in Europe. The Lost World, one of Romania’s most impressive karst regions, hides a spectacular 2,500-meter-long gallery of caves and crevasses.

In this stunning setting, historic cities pop up like cultural gems. Oradea is one of the most important economic and social centers in Western Romania. You’ll be wowed by its architectural style: the Gothic spires pointing to the sky, the opulent palaces with intricate details, and the Art Nouveau masterpieces. The Black Eagle Palace and Baroque-style Bishop’sPalace will captivate you with their charm.

An intriguing aspect of Crișana’s cultural heritage is the tulnic: a traditional wooden instrument similar to the alpenhorn but with a straight end. Historically, the tulnic, which could be as long as two meters, was used for communication among families living far apart. Each household had its own tulnic to create distinctive sounds and tunes for various important occasions, including calling family members, rallying troops, or coordinating activities such as cow milking.

No travel through Crișana would be complete without exploring its culinary delights: a fusion of traditional recipes and local ingredients with Hungarian influences. You should definitely try one of their most famous dishes, a flaky salty cheese pie (plăcintă pe lespede), which can be cooked on a fiery stone slab or fried on the stove. Made with locally sourced cheese, you can drizzle it with cranberry jam or add sugar on top.

Maramureș: Not Your Average Cemetery (and Much More)

Maramureș stands out as an exceptional travel destination – it radiates authenticity. While it is still off-the-beaten-path, it offers a higher level of convenience and services for travelers compared to other parts of the country.

Blessed with the Carpathian Mountains, you can admire the Rodnei Mountains, home to the highest peak in the Eastern Carpathians, Pietrosul Rodnei, at 2,303 meters high. This region is filled with hiking trails that treat you to panoramic vistas and a sense of peace. It is also adorned with crystal-clear rivers like the Iza and Tisa, where you can go fishing and canoeing.

We recommend renting a car and venturing into the villages, where time seems to stand still. You will find people mowing grass, arranging it to form haystacks, and carts pulled by horses. Stay a few nights in Breb, a village where well-preserved houses fill the landscape, offering a glimpse into the region’s architectural heritage. Engage with the locals, known for their warm hospitality and willingness to share their stories. The region has rich folklore, with skilled artisans keeping old traditions such as wood-crafting, embroidering or weaving alive. Take home a piece of Maramureș’s identity to support local craftsmen and preserve these age-old customs.

Visit Săpânța, a village famous for its “Merry Cemetery” (Cimitirul Vesel) with colorful tombstones and whimsical epitaphs telling tales of the dead. An example is: “Below this heavy cross/ Lies my poor old mother-in-law/ If she’d lived another three days/I’d be lying here and she’d be reading this!” The Merry Cemetery is a must-visit if you travel through this region.

You’ll also be amazed by the UNESCO-listed wooden churches in Maramureș – the famous Bârsana or Surdești, with their wooden carvings and vibrant frescoes, are architectural marvels. Visit the lesser-known Wooden Church (Biserica de lemn) Sf. Paraschiva from Deseşti. It is a peaceful, charming little temple with floor carpets and intriguing naive art paintings. Inside, you can walk up a few stairs to reach an inner balcony and admire the inside from a different angle. 

Maramureș also boasts an incredible culinary heritage. A local specialty is caraway soup, a simple but flavorful dish served with hearty stews and succulent grilled meats. The region is also renowned for the unique flavors of the sweet and aromatic răchie (plum brandy).

Bucovina: Eggs-ploring Monasteries 

Traveling northeast, we arrive in a historical region that used to be part of the Austrian Empire. Today, Bucovina is split between two countries: Romania and Ukraine. The Romanian part of Bucovina offers a stunning blend of natural beauty, spiritual heritage, and cultural richness.

The name “Bucovina” is derived from the Slavic word buk, meaning beech tree, reflecting the region’s lush forests and rich biodiversity. Here, you can spot many species of trees, wildflowers, and protected animals, such as the raven. Explore the forests, where trails through ancient trees will lead you to hidden waterfalls and streams. Go on a hike in Ceahlău National Park, home to the impressive Ceahlău Massif, the “Romanian Olympus.” 

This region is famously known for its beautiful old monasteries, many of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These monasteries reflect the artistic and spiritual heritage of the region, showcasing the unique blend of Byzantine and local traditions. They were built primarily during the 15th and 16th centuries, during the rule of the Moldavian princes. The most striking feature of these monasteries is their exterior frescoes. Unlike other Orthodox monasteries, these frescoes cover the outer walls, presenting vivid and intricate biblical scenes and motifs. This unique characteristic was intended to educate the illiterate population. Though touristic, we recommend visiting the Voroneț, (often called the “Sistine Chapel of the East”), Sucevița, Moldovița, and Humor Monasteries. As you walk into their hallowed halls, you will smell the aroma of burning incense flowing through the air. 

The region is also known for its painted Eggs. At The Painted Eggs Museum in Vama, you can see over 10,000 eggs adorned with different Romanian motifs, such as tree branches and crosses, with vivid blues, shimmering golds, and deep reds.

Bucovina’s villages offer a glimpse into a simpler way of life. You will find freshly baked bread and traditional dishes: the iconic ciorbă rădăuțeană (a chicken soup with sour cream), the puffy cozonac (a type of sweet bread filled with cacao, nuts and Turkish delight), and the aromatic plăcinte (pastries filled with seasonal fruits).

Moldavia: a Place to ‘Wine’ Down 

Moldavia has witnessed the rise and fall of empires and served as a crossroads of cultures. Its western part is in Romania; its eastern side belongs to the Republic of Moldova; and its northern and southeastern corners are part of Ukraine.

Within Romania’s regions, Moldavia’s cities are like open-air museums. Iași, once the capital of Moldova, is worth a visit. Don’t miss the iconic Palace of Culture (a symbol of the city) while walking through the fancy streets of the Copou area – where many important Romanian authors found their inspiration. Due to its great literary heritage, Iași hosts an annual Festival of Literature and Translation (FILIT), one of the largest literary festivals in Europe. FILIT offers dozens of events, from meetings with prominent international writers to music and poetry nights, workshops, and readings.

In Suceava, you can dive into the medieval era at the Citadel, an impressive fortress that guarded the northern borders. Explore Bacău, known for its charming squares, bustling markets, and vibrant arts scene. Or discover Piatra Neamț, at the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, a gateway to the breathtaking landscapes of the Ceahlău National Park.

Regarding food, we recommend trying the famous sarmale (cabbage rolls stuffed with a flavorful mix of minced meat and rice) combined with mămăligă (polenta), a comforting cornmeal dish served with various toppings. And you can’t leave Moldavia without trying their wines. Wine is part of the Moldavian culture: it is common for families to grow grapes and make wine. In addition to well-established wineries, artisanal wine shops are quickly catching up. The region’s vineyards produce a variety of quality grapes. These include international varietals, such as Pinot Noir and Merlot, as well as traditional Moldavian grapes, such as the renowned Fetească Neagră and Fetească Albă. Moldavian wines win hundreds of international awards each year. Our favorite wine selections from the region are from Crama Girboiu and Domeniile Panciu wineries.

Moldavia’s countryside is a paradise for outdoor lovers, with hiking trails, lakes, and waterfalls. Visit the Bicaz Gorges, where massive limestone cliffs rise above the waters. For a real adventure, explore the forests of the Vânători-Neamț Natural Park, where you might spot the majestic European bison.

Historically, this region holds one of Europe’s oldest civilizations: the Cucuteni. In the Cucuteni region, excavated sites reveal the Neolithic culture from c. 5500 to 2750 BCE, preceding settlements in Ancient Egypt. The Cucuteni culture was famously known for beautifully decorated ceramics and painted vessels. They extracted salt by boiling spring water in large ceramic vessels to supplement salt into their diets, making Poiana Slatinei, one of the earliest salt work sites in the world. 

Transylvania: More Than Just Dracula’s Castle

This land has witnessed the rise and fall of various civilizations — from the Dacians and Romans to the Saxons and Hungarians — each leaving a significant imprint on Transylvania’s rich history.

Of course, you can explore “Dracula’s Castle” (Bran Castle). But there is much more to see and less touristy places to discover. To better immerse in Transylvania’s countryside, we recommend you get a car and stay at the many rustic hotels catered to foreigners. Transylvania boasts an impressive and rich natural landscape. You can also explore many national parks for camping, hiking, biking, winter sports, and wildlife watching. The region’s forests are a haven for rare and protected species, such as the European brown bear and the elusive lynx. We suggest you visit Șinca Secular Forest, part of a larger UNESCO World Heritage site that preserves ancient and primeval beech forests, along with the nearby charming Șinca Nouă village. We also recommend visiting Romania’s only volcanic lake, Saint Anne, during the fall season for a breathtaking view.   

You will feel the Saxon influence throughout the entire region in villages and larger cities. For a more rural experience, you can visit the well-known Viscri village and lesser-known Prejmer and Biertan villages. Biertan, for instance, is charming and dates back to the 13th century, when Saxons from the West decided to settle here and defend the land from the Ottoman Empire.

For a more urban experience, we recommend visiting Sibiu, Cluj-Napoca, Sighișoara, and Brașov. These cities have an up-and-coming spirit: colorful buildings, and cobblestone alleys with restaurants and coffee shops. Sibiu, a beautiful medieval town, has iconic houses with unique dormers resembling gazing eyes. The city hosts an annual international theater festival called FITS, one of Romania’s most relevant theater and performing arts festivals, with guests and performers coming from more than 70 countries. Cluj-Napoca is Transylvania’s biggest city and has the country’s highest ratio of students to number of residents, making it one of the most culturally vibrant cities. It attracts young people from all over the country and abroad to study, work, or simply have fun. Cluj-Napoca (and its surrounding) holds important music festivals (Electric Castle, Untold, Jazz in the Park, Smida Jazz Festival) and is also the birthplace of the acclaimed Transylvania International Film Festival (TIFF). But while the city attracts crowds during festival seasons, it is known to be quiet. 

Transylvania’s food scene is a result of its multicultural past. Try the tasty ciorbă de tarhon (tarragon soup) or dig into the mouthwatering pork stews. Pair these dishes with a glass of local wine or a sip of țuică (plum brandy). One of the region’s most delicious street foods of Hungarian descent is the kürtőskalác: a sweet dough that can be covered with various toppings (think: cinnamon or grounded walnuts). It fills your mouth with pure joy.

Banat: “Little Vienna” under Big Lights 

In the southwestern corner of Romania, this region is distinguished by its rich cultural, ethnic, and linguistic diversity. Here, ancient Roman settlements and medieval fortresses are scattered through its plains, hills, and mountains. With major rivers like the Danube and the Mureș defining its boundaries, the region’s fertile land has historically supported a thriving population and cultural development.

Timișoara – known as “Little Vienna” for its epic architecture and cultural scene – was the first city in Europe to receive electric street lighting and tram infrastructure. It is also historically significant for its role in the Romanian Revolution of 1989, which led to the fall of the Communist regime. This legacy of political and social change is an integral part of its identity and cultural narrative. Since then, the city has significantly invested in its cultural scene, including renovating historical sites and new cultural venues and improving public spaces, enhancing its attractiveness as a cultural hub. It now has a dynamic cultural programming, such as the Timișoara Jazz Festival, the Timișoara International Theatre Festival, and the Timișoara European Film Festival. In 2023, Timișoara was nominated as the European capital of culture, along with Veszprém in Hungary and Elefsina in Greece.

There are plenty of places to explore in Banat if you love nature. Go on an adventure through the Semenic-Cheile Carașului National Park. Lose yourself in the fascinating landscapes of the Iron Gates, which guard 134 kilometers of the Danube River. Go for a hike through the Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park. Enjoy water sports at Lake Surduc or horseback riding in the Banat Mountains. Keep a keen eye out for deers, wild boars, and the majestic golden eagle.

Don’t miss out on the region’s famous ștrudel cu mere (apple strudel) or the stuffed onions with olives and walnuts dipped into a sweet tomato sauce, which is very characteristic of the region. Grab a glass of the renowned Recaș wine made from grapes grown in the vineyards that dot the countryside.

Oltenia: Fancy a Sculptural Getaway?

Oltenia has a rich history influenced by various civilizations, including the Romans, the Ottoman Empire, and the Habsburgs. This diverse past is reflected in its numerous historical sites and landmarks. If you are in Craiova, the region’scapital, make sure to visit the city’s landmarks, like the Craiova Art Museum and the Nicolae Romanescu Park.

This region is famously known for Constantin Brâncuși, one of the most influential sculptors of the 20th century, who is renowned for his modernist and innovative approach to sculpture. He was born in the village of Hobița, located in Gorj County in the region. You can see his iconic works in several key locations in Romania and beyond, such as Paris and New York. To see his works in Oltenia, make sure to visit Târgu Jiu. Here, you can see the famous Endless Column, the Table of Silence, and the Gate of the Kiss, each celebrated for its striking simplicity and profound impact.

Nature lovers will find Oltenia’s landscapes equally captivating. The Iron Gates, also known as the Danuve Gorges, are a stunning natural landmark marked by dramatic cliffs and serene beauty. We recommend you rent a boat and enjoy the ride! Along the river, don’t miss the giant rock sculpture Statue of Decebalus. It depicts Decebalus, the last king of Dacia, who resisted Roman conquest. The statue is approximately 55 meters high and is one of the largest rock sculptures in Europe.

For a taste of local flavor, indulge in traditional dishes like saramură — a rich stew with grilled fish or fried chicken, tomatoes, and garlic or enjoy meals with leeks, a staple vegetable in the region. Pair these with a glass of robust red wine from Drăgășani or aromatic white wine from Segarcea to complete your experience.

Muntenia: Beyond Bucharest’s Best 

Muntenia, Romania’s second largest historical region after Transylvania, is home to the nation’s vibrant capital, Bucharest. The city’s eclectic architectural landscape, ranging from Belle Époque elegance to stark Communist-era blocks, reflects its rich and tumultuous history. While Bucharest may have an unpolished charm, it thrives with a dynamic cultural scene, including emerging coffee shops, contemporary art galleries, lively bars, and numerous green spaces. Over the past decade, the city has expanded significantly due to foreign investment, leading to a thriving array of activities and experiences that set it apart from other Romanian cities.

Beyond Bucharest, Muntenia has a wealth of cities and attractions worth exploring. Târgoviște, located 80 kilometers northwest of the capital, was once the capital of Wallachia (Țara Românească). Here, you can visit the historic Princely Court (Curtea Domnească) and delve into the region’s journey to independence from the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the 14th century, eventually leading to its status as a principality. Muntenia was later under Ottoman rule until 1859 when it united with Moldova to form the Romanian Old Kingdom.

Further afield, Curtea de Argeș is found with its magnificent Monastery, a beautiful example of Byzantine architecture. In the Carpathian Mountains, the charming town of Sinaia features the stunning Peleș Castle (a must-visit), built by Romania’s first king, Carol I of Hohenzollern. Sinaia is renowned as one of the country’s premier winter destinations, boasting many ski slopes and a variety of fun winter sports activities.

From the flat Romanian Plain to the dramatic Carpathian Mountains, Muntenia offers diverse landscapes. Enjoy scenic road trips through the hills of Prahova Valley, with its picturesque vineyards and orchards, or venture on hikes in the Bucegi Mountains. The Danube River meanders through the region, connecting Muntenia with the broader European landscape. Explore protected areas like the Păltiniș Nature Reserve, where wildflower meadows and dense forests create a haven for wildlife.

For a taste of local cuisine, don’t miss mămăligă cu brânză și smântână (polenta with cheese and sour cream) and ciulama de pui (a savory chicken stew with aromatic herbs). While Muntenia’s culinary scene is less diverse than Dobrogea’s, its proximity to the Danube River brings a delightful array of fresh fish dishes flavored with local herbs.

Dobrogea: Take a Walk on the Wild Side 

Dobrogea is where multiculturalism seamlessly blends with nature. Nestled between the Black Sea to the east and the Danube River to the west, the region showcases the rich legacy of various ethnic groups, including Turks, Tatars, Lipovans, Bulgarians, Ukrainians, and Aromanians.

The region’s true splendor is found in the Danube Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Europe’s largest and best-preserved natural wetlands. This national park teems with biodiversity, offering a labyrinth of channels perfect for cruising and bird-watching. With over 300 bird species, it’s a haven for ornithologists. Some of the delta’s islands float on the water due to the accumulation of reed roots and other organic matter, making them unique in their formation. The reed beds are among the largest in Europe and play a crucial role in regulating the local climate and water quality. The region is truly spectacular. The Macin Mountains, the oldest mountain range in Romania, boast unique flora and fauna, including the elusive European wildcat and the delicate Lady’s Slipper orchid. As one of Europe’s least populated areas, the Danube Delta provides an untouched sanctuary for nature. Local communities primarily rely on fishing, tourism, and traditional crafts.

Dobrogea’s history is marked by successive waves of colonization, starting with the Greeks and Romans and followed by the Persians, Turks, Tatars, and Russians, all of whom have influenced its cities. In Constanța, you can explore the iconic Casino building overlooking the sea and the Roman Mosaic Edifice with its archaeological treasures. Don’t miss the Great Mosque, a fine example of Ottoman architecture, and stroll through the old town’s charming historic streets. Mangalia town is famous for its therapeutic mud baths and ancient ruins, while Histria, one of Romania’s oldest settlements, offers fascinating remnants of Greek and Roman civilizations.

For a taste of local cuisine, indulge in the fresh flavors of the river and sea. Try the plachie, a savory fish stew cooked in a clay pot; the borș de pește, a tangy fish soup; and enjoy mussels and sea snails prepared with generous amounts of garlic.